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OLIVE RIDLEY MATING CONGREGATIONS, ORISSA, INDIA. GREENPEACE INTERNATIONAL

November 2005 saw SCUBAZOO’s first project with Greenpeace International. Jason Isley travelled to the Sate of Orissa in India to shoot the mass mating congregations of Olive Ridley turtles, whilst staying onboard the famous ‘Rainbow Warrior’. The trip was to be no ‘walk in the park’ - having spent four hours at the Indian Embassy in Kuala Lumpur getting the necessary visa stamp in his passport, Jason thought things could only get better – little did he know what was ahead. Once in the city of Chennai he was quickly introduced to the various members of Greenpeace International and Greenpeace India, along with photographer Roger Grace. The bad news was that due to the Indian bureaucracy the crew were not allowed to board the ‘Rainbow Warrior’. So whilst Greenpeace India were busy dealing with the necessary authorities, the rest used the time to visit the incredible rock temples of Mamallapuran, Tamil Nadu.

Tuk Tuks lining the streets of Chennai View the temples of Mamallapuran The rock temples of Mamallapuran One of the monkeys of Mamallapuran modelling for Jason Isley Rock Carving at Mamallapuran
A rock elephant beside the temple of Mamallapuran The beach of Mamallapuran Jason Isley taking a break with Maartje van Boekel of Greenpeace International The beach of Mamallapuran Jason Isle of the temple Mamallapuran

Three days later it was decided the ‘red tape’ was just too thick to cut through and Jason and the rest of the crew would have to fly north to Bubaneshwar and join the ‘Rainbow Warrior’ at the port of Paradip. The ship was going to take a few days to arrive so rather than waste time Jason travelled to the Devi river mouth to film the nesting beach, along with any dead turtles that had been washed ashore.

One of the biggest threats to the turtles of Orissa is from trawlers – accidental bycatch kills hundreds of thousands each year, and nesting beach are often littered with hundreds of dead turtles. Because of this the crew visited the fishing harbour to record the trawlers returning from sea and also to check just how many were actually using their turtle extractor nets – these are handed out to all the trawler fishermen and allow any turtles caught in the nets to escape.

Typical village scene near the Devi river Roger Grace with a following of children at the Devi river mouth Roger Grace with a following of children at the Devi River mouth Local children posing on fishing boat at the Devi River confiscated trawlers moored at the Devi River Mouth
A dead turtle washed up on the beach at Devi River mouth Jason Isley filming a dead turtle washed up on the beach at Devi River mouth Roger Grace out looking for turtles Searching for turtle tracks at the Devi River mouth Te huge beach at the mouth of the Devi is used as a road by the local community

One week into the trip Jason finally got to visit the ‘Rainbow Warrior’ and board this famous ship. Greenpeace held an open day for the local authorities to help educate everyone about the state of the Olive Ridley population and the threats to these endangered turtles. For Jason, it was a great experience to finally get onboard and film this event. Whilst in Paradip he also visited the beach to shoot the local fishermen and their families bringing in their daily catch. The beach was hectic, with nets being repaired and children more than eager to get in front of the camera!

A huge turtle sculpture at the fishing port of Paradip. Ironically the trawlers are responsible for thousands of turtle deaths each year. Tradisional Boat at the Paradip fishing port Fishing at sunset A turtle washed up on Paradip's beach
Jason Isley with some interested onloookers whilst filming on the community beach at Paradip. Illegal trawlersat Paradip fishing port.      

The entourage then travelled to the Bhittarkanika Sanctuary to film around the mangroves and river mouths of Gahirmatha. The birdlife here was incredible and the crew managed to spot deer and crocodiles, including both salt-water and mugger crocodiles.

The "Rainbow Warrior" at last The " Rainbow Warrior" moored at the Paradip's main port. Jason Isley filming the open day onboard the 'Rainbow Warrior' Mending nets on Paradip's community beach Jason Isley with some interested onlookers whilst filming on the community beach at Paradip
A girl carrying food on the Paradip beach Richard of Greenpeace International      

The next day saw an early start to get out on the open sea in search of mating turtles – remarkably, having travelled 2 hours by car, 2 hours on a very small boat up river and then 2 hours onboard a trawler, there some 50 metres ahead were a paring of mating Olive Ridley turtles! Jason managed to get some topside footage of one, quickly followed by another mating pair. By the third time both Roger and Jason decided it was time to try and get some shots of them underwater. Slipping quietly into the water from a trawler is not easy and after swimming very slowly towards it became obvious that they were not used to having humans in the water with them - both immediately dived and the only footage was some very distant shapes as they disappeared into the murky depths.

One of the many towns enroute to Gahirmatha Greenpeace India HQ at Gahirmatha A juvenile mugger crocodile Heading out tot he mangroves of Gahirmatha The welcome meal at Gahirmatha HQ

After climbing back onto the trawler the crew were informed it was time to head back, and that this was to be the one and only chance of filming them underwater! Two hours on the trawler, another two hours up river and then four hours in the car back to the hotel in Bhubanshwar - so much time travelling for a single shot!

Another day in India - the Greenpeace staff with Jason isley Where's the hotel? - end of the road for the turtle search

The bureaucracy of India managed to ensure this shoot was not one to succeed, but many thanks must go to Greenpeace India for doing everything in their power to try and make things work.  SCUBAZOO will be back!

Additional photographs courtesy of Roger Grace.

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